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#91
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Larry, If you can run the Magnum R/T heads,then I would run them. If you are restricted to stock castings only, then the choice narrows somewhat. If I had to choose between say the 360 high swirl head or the stock Magnum head based on the head alone, then I would probably go with the 360 HS heads. They use the shaft rockers and can get to the 9.3:1 compression range easily. If you were restricted to flat top pistons or had a 2 bbl carb rule I might change my mind.
The two big difference between these heads in my opinion is the chamber shape and the rocker arm design. I like the Magnum chamber shape and size compared to the 360 HS head. I however prefer the shaft rockers more than the chamber shape typically. Some of this is determined by what lift range and rpm range you anticipate running. A little bit more info might help us recommend more options. Also, you should post your own thread so everybody sees it. ![]() |
#92
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Is there any oil pumps out there that have enough material to allow drilling and tapping the 3/8" NPT pickup to a 1/2"? I don't want to go through the misery of a custom pan with dual pickups.
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#93
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you can put a half inch pickup in a melling pump
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#94
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Thanks.
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#95
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Shaft oiling is standard on 59 degree R-3 blocks that came from the Mound Road foundry, don`t know about the 48 degree ones or the other later blocks that are cast elsewhere.
[434" Dart] |
#96
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Sandborn, I am preparing 2 stock blocks, one hydraulic and one solid cam, and they are going to be for 1/4 mile drag only. Can I restrict the oil flow from the front main to the driver side lifter galley with a hyd cam?? If so to what size? I am going to restrict the feeds from the mains to the cambrg/rocker shafts to 1/8 inch, but not sure about the front that feeds the driver side lifter bores since I am using a hyd. cam.
Also I am a little confused about how you plumb the line that comes off the remote filter to feed frm the front. How do you get into the lifter valley with it. Also sice its not high mileage circle track use should I worry with it? |
#97
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Can any tell me the number of the deep freeze plug used to block off the left oil galley or were I can get one. Our parts stores here said they can only get the normal size plug no deep one. I compared there nornal size plug with the factory one and it isn't even as deep.
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#98
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We use TWO freeze plugs in the left lifter galley. That also gives the option to totally block off the oil or drill a very small hole(.060" or less) through the inside freeze plug to allow a small amount of oil to the lifters.
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#99
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Lets just say because of track rules we had to oil the left side galley from the front main. Would it be a good idea to drill the feed from the right side galley to the main to 5/16" rather than 9/32". Also if you had to feed the rocker shafts from only the cam bearings should those right side feeds be 5/16". This is a solid cam engine, Thanks.
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#100
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Seems to me if not done in the right manner you could ruin a set pretty quick. |
#101
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The best way is to use a Vertical milling machine---like a Bridgeport. If you don't have access to a Bridgeport, the next best bet is a small rat tail hand file. It takes longer, but does the same thing.
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#102
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i have a couple questions what is the purpose of painting the inside of your engine where the lifters sit and what is the porpose for blocking off the holes above the camshaft
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#103
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do you use a powder coat paint or is it a special engine paint
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#104
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i guess if i wouldnt have skiped a page i would have seen y you do that do you only block off the holes above the cam in a dry sump or any engine thanx
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#105
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Under heavy torque loads, blocks flex----and when they flex, small grains of iron or sand can be released from the cast iron and get in the oil. These small grains can(and will) cause bearing problems.
We paint the inside of our blocks to help seal the grains under the paint. We use Rustoleum "Clean metal" primer. We have never had any to peal off! Just make sure the block is clean(no oil) before you paint. And----painted blocks and heads just look better too! |
#106
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hey sandborn what goes in the holes you drilled in the galley where the cam holes are and can you do these mods with stock equipment we have to run all stock stuff on our engines please let me know thanx
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#107
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I don't understand your question about the cam holes. Please ask it again---maybe refer to a specific photo.
A lot of the modifications should be done to any race engine. Things like deburring oil passages, making sure the oil pickup doesn't have restriction, making sure the oil pump fits the main bearing cap properly, etc. If you are in a limited RPM/HP situation, you don't need to worry about feeding the main oil galley from both ends. But just about everything else should be at least "thought about". Most race engines fail because we(the builder) didn't do something we should have. It might be the parts we bought or used but most of the time its due to something we didn't do. |
#108
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its the fifth pick on page 1 there is a strip of aluminium covering the holes where you look down on the cam is it good to do somthing like that on a streetstock engine and the two holes they apear to be about 3/8 one at the front of the engine on the right and half way back on the left are they just drain holes or ???? what conects them or leave them open
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#109
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Now I understand your question.
The aluminum plate covering the camshaft is to keep oil from coming up through the block to the valley. Oil up in the valley serves no purpose and is best deflected back down on the cam. The two holes in the block are cast holes and are needed for oil drainback if you use a wet sump oiling system. |
#110
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so those little holes are just a drilled hole in there and left open for oil to drain back down???
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#111
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Sanborn, I was mulling over these oiling mods with the guy thats doing the machine work on my engine and he had a idea about oiling the rocker shafts.
Why couldnt you remote oil the shafts from the lifter valley like you do the left side lifter galley? it looks like there would be enough material where the oil passages are that run to the rocker shafts to drill and tap them and then you could go with restictors up in the heads (I am using stock X heads) that you could change by simply removing the shafts if needed. It would also give the shafts a constant flow of oil instead of having to navigate up through the cam journals. Ever expiriment with that? |
#112
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Thunder are you talking about the holes at the back of the aluminum plate?
If so I think those are mounting holes to hold the plate down. I want to do that on my stock blocks but from what I can see you are hard pressed to find enough matierial back there to drill and tap for a bolt. Unless you use bolts smaller then 1/4 inch..... |
#113
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no there is a hole on the right front about 3/8 inch and on the left side in the middle they look like drain holes its the fifth picture down on the first page of this thread i was just wondering where they go to
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#114
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also the eighth picture down as well its a crossover or somthing i dont understand whats happening there
thanx |
#115
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Those are holes drilled and tapped in the lifter oil galleys to run a crossover tube from the passingers side galley to the driver side. They are tapped with a 1/8 inch pipe tap.
If you do that then you block off the oil feed passage that runs from the front main to the driver side lifter galley. |
#116
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so you run a 1/8 line across the vally and the oil goes through it from the middle on the left then drips back in from the front right hole ?? can you use a bigger crossover line?? or is 1/8 good enough???
off topic a little i have a mopar racing modification book and it says to help keep the right side valve cover from filling with oil on short tracks you put a 3/8 line from the back of lowest part of the valve cover to the left side of the oilpan to help it drain back into the oilpan a bit faster on the short straights is this wise to do ,or not really a big problem??? |
#117
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You have it backwards, it runs from the front right(as if you were seting in the car) over to the left middle.
The fittings you use are 1/8 pipe and Sanborn stated he uses 3/16 brake line but I have seen all kinda crazy configurations with different size tubing. Keep in mind that you can tap in anywhere in between the lifters on the right (passingers) side galley and run it over. On my blocks I am going to tap in at the rear of the block where the oil pressure sending unit hole is. As far as the drainback on the head goes I am a dragracer so I am not used to oiling mods for making left hand turns but I would think you would really have to pump alot of oil up to the top to warrant a drainback in the valve cover. I have some aftermarket heads that have drainback holes in the head just below the valve covers I would assume for this purpose. We concentrate on keeping it in the pan and controlling it on launch and shutdown more then anything. |
#118
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ya ive never had a problem with it but i suggests to do it
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#119
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I have never had a problem with too much oil in the right side valve cover. But, I manage our oil flow very closely and don't use a high volume pump.
If you use a high volume pump, you do run the risk of pumping too much oil to the topside. If this is the case, an oil drainback tube is called for. Make the drainback tube as large as possible---a 3/4" ID tube is not too large for drainback. We use drainback tubes on our Super Late Model engines but for an entirely different reason---there is no provision for drainback unless you use the tubes. |
#120
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no im just using a good stock replacement oil pump and ive got my valve covers with a tube coming off each one and connecting them together 2 breathers in the middle on the front it works good even when i had the stock valve covers on it never leaked just out the old gaskets once i change them they dont leak, do you recomend the crossover tube and blocking off the cam so no oil splashes up into the galley??
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